Size Approx. Diameter Context
12s ~41mm The most common vintage size — classic pocket watch feel
16s ~45mm A substantial timepiece — fills the palm nicely
18s ~50mm The grand railroad size — a statement piece
18s
16s
12s
Sizes of a Pocket Watch
I currently have 3 sizes in stock: 12s (or "12 size"), 16s, and 18s.
What is a jewel and why quantity matters?
In a pocket watch movement, "jewels" are not decorative gemstones — they are precisely cut natural or synthetic rubies or sapphires used as bearings at the points of highest friction inside the movement. Because gemstones are extremely hard and naturally smooth, they dramatically reduce wear on the delicate metal pivot points that keep the gears spinning.
A higher jewel count generally means the watchmaker invested more in protecting the movement's most vulnerable components. A 7-jewel movement covers only the essential pivot points, while a 15, 17, or 21-jewel movement extends that protection to additional gears and levers — resulting in a more accurate, longer-lasting timepiece that requires less frequent servicing.
Railroad-grade pocket watches were required by law to have a minimum of 17 jewels for this reason — precision and reliability were literally a matter of life and death on the rails.
As a rule of thumb: more jewels means more craftsmanship, better accuracy, and greater longevity — and is reflected in both the original cost of the watch and its value to collectors today.
In the earliest pocket watches — before 1902 — the jewels used were genuine natural rubies and sapphires, painstakingly cut from real gemstones. This made multi-jewel movements extremely expensive and reserved for only the finest timepieces. That changed in 1902 when French chemist Auguste Verneuil perfected a process for creating synthetic rubies in a laboratory. These lab-grown stones are chemically and physically identical to natural rubies — same hardness, same smoothness — but could be produced in bulk at a fraction of the cost. By around 1908–1910 the switch was well underway across the industry. This means many of the watches in my collection — produced in the late 1800s through early 1900s — may contain real, natural ruby and sapphire jewels. That's a remarkable detail most owners never know about the timepiece sitting in a drawer.
In the earliest pocket watches — before 1902 — the jewels used were genuine natural rubies and sapphires, painstakingly cut from real gemstones. This made multi-jewel movements extremely expensive and reserved for only the finest timepieces. That changed in 1902 when French chemist Auguste Verneuil perfected a process for creating synthetic rubies in a laboratory. These lab-grown stones are chemically and physically identical to natural rubies — same hardness, same smoothness — but could be produced in bulk at a fraction of the cost. By around 1908–1910 the switch was well underway across the industry. This means many of the watches in my collection — produced in the late 1800s through early 1900s — may contain real, natural ruby and sapphire jewels. That's a remarkable detail most owners never know about the timepiece sitting in a drawer.
7 Jewel Movement
21 Jewel Movement
Size 18s - Railroad Grand
The largest and most impressive American pocket watch size · approx. 50mm · often railroad grade
Elgin - 1910 This Elgin from 1910 has been fully restored. Bought in Barcelona in 2026, it was barely running. Appears to be in the original case with texture and emblem on the case back. Case does have some wear and tear as well as "brassing" - wearing off of the gold plating - has new White's glass crystal. All visible screwheads, regulator arm, and index (S and F indicator) polished. Runs accurately for 116 years old!Grade: 294Model: 5Est. Date: 1910 Jewels: 7 Serial Number: 14709325 Configuration: Open Face Setting: Pendant Finish: Gilt Case: Unknow maker, Gold Filled 20 year - screw on case front and backDial Up: Daily Rate: +/-3 sec/day Amplitude: 240° degrees Beat Error: 0.0ms
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
Elgin - 1910 This Elgin from 1910 has been fully restored. Bought in Barcelona in 2026, it was barely running. Appears to be in the original case with texture and emblem on the case back. Case does have some wear and tear as well as "brassing" - wearing off of the gold plating - has new White's glass crystal. All visible screwheads, regulator arm, and index (S and F indicator) polished. Runs accurately for 116 years old!Grade: 294Model: 5Est. Date: 1910 Jewels: 7 Serial Number: 14709325 Configuration: Open Face Setting: Pendant Finish: Gilt Case: Unknow maker, Gold Filled 20 year - screw on case front and backDial Up: Daily Rate: +/-3 sec/day Amplitude: 240° degrees Beat Error: 0.0ms
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
$315.00
$300.00
American Waltham Watch Co. - Dec 1896-Oct 1899
This Waltham produced was between Dec 1896 and Oct 1899 is in excellent condition, fully restored, and looks to be in it's original Fahys silveroid case from the 1890s which has been fully polished and glassed with a think White's crystal. New alloy steel mainspring replaced the broken carbon steel. The case sleeve was also adjusted to properly wind and set. Blued screws on watchmaker's side are in excellent condition. Grade: No.1Model: 1883Est. Date: Dec 1896-Oct 1899
Jewels: 7
Serial Number: 7444688
Configuration: Open Face
Setting: Pendant
Finish: Gilt
Case: Fahys, Silveroid - screw on case front and backDial Up: Daily Rate: +/-3 sec/day
Amplitude: 250° degrees
Beat Error: 0.0-0.1ms
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
$425.00
American Waltham Watch Co. - Apr 1890-Jan 1892
This Waltham was produced between Apr 1890 and Jan 1892 and is in excellent condition. Fully serviced, new steel alloy mainspring, and cased in a Trade Mark silveroid "swing out" with a new thick White's beveled crystal. Blued screws with unique demaskeening on watchmaker's side. Amplitude (power) is not where I want it, but keeps good time for a 136 year old pocket watch! Grade: 35Model: 1883Est. Date: Apr 1890-Jan 1892
Jewels: 15
Serial Number: 4299649
Configuration: Open Face
Setting: Pendant
Finish: Nickel
Case: Trade Mark, Silveroid - swing out case, screw on case frontDial Up: Daily Rate: +/-2 sec/day
Amplitude: 205° degrees
Beat Error: 0.0-0.1ms
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
Size 16s - The Classic
The most popular American railroad size · approx. 45mm · fills the palm beautifully
$415.00
Elgin - 1938 This 17j Elgin was made in 1938 and is in excellent condition. Fully serviced, new steel alloy mainspring, replaced case screws, dial-washer, and dust ring. Unique to this movement is the "Montgomery Dial" - where each minute is identified on outer dial with red numerals every 5 minutes. Re-cased in a North American Watch Company "Challenge" case with nickel sliver. Complete with a new White's beveled crystal. Very strong amplitude and very accurate (+/- 1 sec/day) in dial up, dial down, and crown up positions!Grade: 387Model: 7Est. Date: 1938
Jewels: 17
Serial Number: 37415163
Configuration: Open Face
Setting: Pendant
Finish: Nickel
Case: North American Watch Company "Challenge" nickel-silver - screw on case front and backDial Up: Daily Rate: +/-1 sec/day
Amplitude: 330° degrees
Beat Error: 0.1-0.2ms
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
$325.00
Elgin - 1951 This "recent" 17j Elgin was made in 1951 and is in excellent condition. Fully serviced with new steel alloy mainspring replacing the old carbon steel mainspring. Polished visible screwheads, click, ratchet wheel, and crown wheel. Presented in its original Elgin National Watch Co. 10K rolled gold case - movement and case have never been separated. The case shows honest wear consistent with its age including minor brassing and light dents, which only adds to its authentic character as a working timepiece since 1951. Grade: 616Model: 20Est. Date: 1938
Jewels: 17
Serial Number: N783936
Configuration: Open Face
Setting: Pendant
Finish: Nickel
Case: Original Elgin National Watch Co. 10K rolled gold plate - screw on case front and backDial Up: Daily Rate: +/-2 sec/day
Amplitude: 313° degrees
Beat Error: 0.0-0.1ms
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
$350.00
Elgin - 1914 This 17j Elgin was made in 1914 and fully serviced. and is in excellent condition. Fully serviced with a new balance staff. Original mainspring was in great condition so not replaced. Polished screws, new dial-washer, and in great condition. Re-cased in a gold-filled Standard Watch Case Company "Scepter" case with Art Deco styling on the front and back grip rings and faint (worn with time) pinstriping on the case back with a new White's beveled crystal. Grade: 387Model: 7Est. Date: 1938
Jewels: 17
Serial Number: 17919709
Configuration: Open Face
Setting: Pendant
Finish: Nickel
Case: Standard Watch Case Company "Scepter", gold filled - screw on case front and backDial Up: Daily Rate: +/-1 sec/day
Amplitude: 260° degrees
Beat Error: 0.0-0.1ms
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
$385.00
Waltham - 1907 This pre-WWI Waltham was made in 1907 and fully serviced. New balance staff, balance staff plate cap jewel, new steel alloy mainspring, replacement dustband, and dial washer. and is in excellent condition. Fully serviced with a new balance staff. Fixed a loose roller jewel with shellac. Polished screws, ratchet & crown wheels and washers, and regulator. Re-cased in a Philadelphia silverode case with a new White's beveled crystal. Grade: 610Model: 1899Est. Date: 1907
Jewels: 7
Serial Number: 15514339
Configuration: Open Face
Setting: Pendant
Finish: Nickel
Case: Philadelphia silverode - screw on case front and backDial Up: Daily Rate: +/-X sec/day
Amplitude: XXX° degrees
Beat Error: XXms
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
In Test
In Test
Size 12s - The Classic Dress Watch
Elegant and refined · approx. 41mm · the most common vintage pocket watch size
Waltham - 1918 This 17j Waltham was made in 1918 and in excellent running condition. and re-cased in a "salesman" display case that I made (not original) with two new White's beveled crystals. It highlights the craftmanship of this movement with out having to open the case back. Fully serviced with new old stock "crescent moon" blued hands, replacement case screws, tightened canon pinion, and replacement dust cover. Original mainspring was in great condition so not replaced. This is really a showoff piece! Grade: No. 235Model: 1894Est. Date: 1918
Jewels: 17
Serial Number: 22193018
Configuration: Open Face
Setting: Pendant
Finish: Nickel
Case: "Salesman" clear back case - screw on case front and backDial Up: Daily Rate: +/-1 sec/day
Amplitude: 257° degrees
Beat Error: 0.0-0.1ms
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
$325.00
Waltham - 1921This 15j Waltham was made in 1921 and in excellent running condition s Fully serviced with new old stock "crescent moon" blued hands, replacement case screws, replacement lower balance cap jewel, and hairspring adjustments. New steel alloy mainspring replaced the the old carbon steel. Re-cased in striking Standard Watch Case Company "Scepter" nickel-silver Art Deco octagonal case with engine-turned linear engraving (pin-striped) on the case back with a new White's beveled crystal. Very minor hairline cracks in the dial...she is 105 years old! Grade: No. 220Model: 1894Est. Date: 1921
Jewels: 15
Serial Number: 23986168
Configuration: Open Face
Setting: Pendant
Finish: Nickel
Case: Standard Watch Case Company "Scepter" - snap-on case front and back front and backDial Up: Daily Rate: +/-2 sec/day
Amplitude: 238° degrees
Beat Error: 0.0-0.1ms
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
Includes Fact Card & 6-mo. warranty
$425.00